Monday, September 24, 2012

london days 1 & 2

The equivalent slang for the American term “chick” in England is “bird,” and people call women here “birds” with comparable consistency and reverence--or lack thereof, depending on who’s calling--to as they do back home. When I was a freshman in high school, my Spanish teacher asked the class, once: would you rather be “hot,” or “intelligent”? She was a strong-willed woman, very small and thin, already married, with a family. To her, the answer was obvious: but to us, girls who felt the pressure to live up to the expectations of the majority, it wasn’t an easy answer. I never made up my mind. 

This same Señora ranted to the class on several occasions about how--well--not classy it was to call a girl a “chick,” as chicks were baby hens and went “pío, pío, pío!” I spent time often around this sort of language and hadn’t taken too badly to it, but of course, much time has passed since then. All that to say--I’m not a bird, men of England!

This is related to what I’m writing about, because we went to see Chariots of Fire my second night in London and there is a musical number in which the boys are discussing their futures shortly after they’ve arrived at Cambridge; one of them professes to wish to spend his time “bird-watching.” In period British pieces, this isn’t an uncommon pun. And categorically--that is, as a pun--I do appreciate it.

* * *

On the tube, I had my things with me. This is a bright pink--hot pink, even--piece of luggage, my laptop, and a backpack full of the things I’d use during my stay in London. You know how I looked: as though I’d crawled out of the grave. I felt as though I floated. I swayed in my seat. I held the handle of this luggage with confidence, I nestled the backpack between my feet planted on the floor. The neon-yellow luggage tag on this backpack labeled me to those who would look as a member of the University of California, Irvine’s Campuswide Honors Program. This was the Piccadilly line headed into central London. The regular commuters have mastered the art of the glare, of the “surreptitious,” disapproving glance. I felt utterly defeated. Here I had been in the UK for a matter of minutes, for less than an hour, and I had already broken social norms. But what could I do? Here I was, a rooted young American taking up two seats on the tube. There was nothing. I sat and ignored them while also smiling apologetically. 

At my station, I hauled my luggage past ten or twelve people, and a man stood to help me not run over people’s feet and legs. I thanked him and nearly died stepping off onto the platform. The tube lady will tell you--the lady whose voice is broadcast over the PA system--to “mind the gap,” but she says it so much that you forget to do it. The gap is wide. Seeing it, looking down, about to step into it, I heaved my luggage into safe middle-ground of the platform. I flew across the gap after it.

I remember the platform as vaguely shiny. The ground is pale and I flew over it, interested to get above ground. The panic of not knowing ever exactly what I was doing inflated me, and I’m sure I floated. (It never hurts at first; later, I would feel it, in my shoulders, the back of my knees, my neck. The cuts on my feet are still healing.)

I made my way into the English air. I walked down the wrong street. I figured this out and dragged my things and my body onto the right street. In the distance, through refracting sunlight, I spotted the brick edifice of the building I’d researched online. There was a brief burst of delight and then a resignation to walk the rest of the way--one step after another. Remember: I am too warm, the sun is out, I’ve spent fourteen hours now away from anyone I know. I am a person who lives inside of herself forced to inhabit externality. Perhaps it’s difficult to understand, if you travel, if taking real, tangible steps towards something so large and strange is not something completely new to you. I don’t know how to describe it other than as a sort of disengagement--I became entirely a part of London while distancing from the enormity of what I was doing. I retreated inside of myself. But I think something sensory about me was still alive and active. There is a small wonder I recollect, looking back now, that I do not recall feeling then. 

The LSE High Holborn Residence requires a key fob to open the doors. Not knowing this, when I can’t get in, I nearly give way to tears: my arms are numb, and when I flex my fingers I can’t place them in space around me. Are they still attached to my hands? Do I have hands? Am I in England? Can I take it all back? Do I have hands?

And the door opens, a girl having let me in. I wonder vaguely if she’s one of the people in charge but quickly conclude that she’s just a helpful student. At this point I breathe deeply, unabashedly, I shake out my arms. They’re still asleep. My back aches intensely, but I don’t fully notice. Matt is already checking in. My plans to leave my things in the luggage room and venture out to find Poetry Cafe have already dissipated. I didn’t understand before coming here that jet lag doesn’t just mean you’re tired--it can also mean you’re simply unsuitable to be in public. Or not yet ready. But in my case, certainly the former over the latter.

Numb, I think. They handed me the sheet to fill in to sign in. American address, I don’t have a mobile phone yet; next destination? What does that mean? Oh, Norwich? Yes, I’m going there, too. Okay, that makes sense. How am I going to make myself like England enough to make missing home hurt less? 

I heard Matt say: “ahh, elevators!” And the desk staff smiled; it’s a lift, here, but a tired American can’t be bothered. I felt my hands again. I had a body. Things would be okay.

I took the lift up to the seventh floor and took several minutes to open my door. The handle drooped with comic melancholy. The end of it had scourged a deep scrape into the metal of its plate and the surrounding wood. The door above the handle said “729.”

The room was small. The wall opposite me had a window, a nightstand, and the bed’s headboard edged against this and the left wall. To my immediate left there was a small washbasin. On my right, a desk, and above it, a bookshelf. I rolled my luggage into the corner and cast off my shoes. I leaned out of the window, I looked down into dumpsters, but looked up to see Big Ben, and other iconic silhouettes. I ran to the shower, which was a strange set up--a long shower, like a small room, with a door with hooks and a lock and a small rack at the front left corner. There were two bottles in it, one for shampoo and one for body-wash, both with french versions of recognizable labels. 

And I put on clothes, I couldn’t figure out how to make my hair-dryer turn on, so I let my hair air-dry, and I took a half-hour nap.

When I woke up, I began writing the blog you’ve probably already read. I went down grudgingly, wanting more sleep, to the dining hall. I see Marina at a table with Matt and a girl I don’t know. I hope fervently, nearly praying, that there will be more of us. I sit down, I smile, I attempt to appear friendly, and slump over the table, attempting to stay awake.

“How jet lagged are you?”

“I’m asleep right now,” I say.

Another student joins us, while Marina tells us it’s “Nor-ich,” because the “w” is silent. I almost laugh--and then I realize this is six months or more that I’ve been pronouncing the name of the city I’ll live in incorrectly. I have been in this country for a matter of hours and I already have changed, have acquired knowledge impossible outside of this place. My back is hurting, now. The boy who’s joined us tells us he’s here because he didn’t know he had to come to EAP orientation and so he missed his. For a moment, I pity his human soul, and then I wonder how it is I even managed to find out what I did at all. I can’t remember. 

Another boy joins us and sits on my right side; Julian; who complains about everything and has no filters. He’s entertaining enough regardless, the archetypal southern Californian “bro.” What a treat he’ll be to the locals, I think sardonically before I rest my chin in my purse on the table in front of me and listen to everyone talking. Marina introduces me to Brittany at some point. Brittany is automatically too cool for me. I try not to fall asleep. 

And I don’t particularly like anybody at this table. I’m feeling homesick and wondering why I thought I could do this at all. All the glory of the moment is lost on me.


* * *

Monika picks us up from the hostel and we head back out into the city air. London is a downtrodden place, I think, my face angled to the gum-plastered ground. We are walking quickly through the city, and I am tired, and my chest is hurting inside. I want this, I want this, I want this.

Monika is small and blond, originally from Poland. She’s lived in England for seven years, in North London. She has a Master’s degree in international relations. She walked us to a street full of quite British office buildings with black or dark-green doors. The handles are round and in the middle, as some British doorhandles are. When we walked into the building, the carpets were middle-green, almost blue, sort of teal, and there are white walls. We walked up steep stairs, two floors. We entered a strangely-shaped room with high windows and victorian, thick, velvet damask-detail curtains; cream with dark teal. We sit in two rows: three girls in front, three boys in back. 

We get up immediately at Monika’s request. She announces ice-breakers and I feel immediately nervous. I do not live outside of myself unless I am safe: am I safe here? Will I ever be? I try not to care. Monika makes us introduce ourselves and the way we dance. I feel like crying: I do not dance! Well, I do, but it’s hazardous for all parties involved! And, more importantly, I do not dance in front of strangers, not when people are so quick to make up their minds! And I realize I’ve made up my mind already: I try to push down on these boundaries, and obediently wiggle when it comes to my turn in line. I put my hands on my hips afterwards and feel like an idiot for it but do not move. There comes a point where you simply draw a line and do things. Perhaps it’s when you’re this tired. Perhaps it’s when you break a wall. Perhaps it’s both. 

We survive the dance party. None of us particularly enjoy it. We return to our seats and my bones creak and settle into place. We listen to a safety lecture, we receive folders full of information, and “gift bags” with snacks and leaflets in them. We have a quiz: these are popular in England. We’re asked to translate the names of pictures of regular American items into British English. We’re asked to identify, by name, pictures of British things. I call the Yorkshire Pudding. I’ve done extensive research in traditional British food, but still somehow did not know, before leaving, how big a kipper was. At any rate, I know a Yorkshire Pudding when I see one. I know an eggplant is an aubergine here. I learn that arugula is called “rocket,” sometimes spelled “roquette.” I learn that zucchini is “courgette” and tank tops are vests. I know that umbrellas are sometimes “brollies,” rain boots are “wellies,” a girl’s wallet is a “purse.” I am reminded that the British drive on the left because armies used to march on the left to fight opposition with their right arms. The rest of Europe was conquered by a left-handed man--and so drive on the right. But Napoleon didn’t take Britain, so looking in every direction when I consider crossing the street is still a necessity here. And I still, sometimes, am taken by surprise by oncoming traffic. 

The drivers in London are worse than New York--here there are Y-shaped intersections with no discernible logic governing who goes when. I think busses have the right of way, and bikers bike in the bus lanes. When I first got to London I couldn’t find the street signs--they are not near the traffic lights, but are plaques on the sides of buildings--and not every building; not even most buildings--so you really just need to know your way around or not mind getting lost. And have a magical ability to repel cars. 

After our informational session, we say goodbye to the student who missed his own orientation. There are five of us now: three girls, two boys. We’re walking to dinner; on the way there, Matt mentions something to Marina about her being a vegetarian, and Brittany says she is, too: and I say with some relief, “me, too!” Later, when Brittany and I go on a tour of Norwich we sit with a girl from Maine and another from Minnesota; we tell them we’re vegetarians and, smiling, the girl from Minnesota, who’s doing her post-grad dissertation in Art History, shakes her head and says, “Californians.”

This is a relief: not that I adhere to Californian stereotype, but that the other two are vegetarians, too, and that we can help each other know where to eat. It had been a concern of mine that I wouldn’t make friends if I couldn’t eat anywhere others wanted to, but now I knew I wouldn’t be the only annoying one, and therefore, I was more acceptable by percentage rules. Percentage rules in the mind of someone who isn’t meant to calculate percentages, yeah, but, still, something was good about it.

* * *

Monika leads us down into a restaurant whose walls are made entirely of glass. Throughout the meal I stare out into the leaves of a tree, thick and green as a bush, waving violently in wind, and two people, unbothered, sitting on the brick planter beneath it. 

It’s Jaime Oliver’s restaurant, called Union Jack’s. The menu, our gregarious waiter explains to us Americans, is based on the philosophy of an Italian bistro sourced only with typical British ingredients. There are pizzas and sandwiches and meat plates. There are a lot of interestingly-flavoured drinks. At first I ask for water, but after everyone goes around ordering theirs, the waiter returns to me and points out that the only one that hasn’t been ordered yet is apple-cinnamon and asks me if I’d like to try it. After a moment of being talked into it, I say yes. When the waiter brings our drinks, he hands me mine first and says, “you’re going to love it!”

“I’m sure I will,” I say.

The straws are made of pasteboard and are white with small red polkadots. My drink tastes like carbonated apple pie, but not so sweet. We are all, for the moment, happy. I am warming to this company. I have a flickering idea that I’ve misjudged Matt; I have a growing feeling I will not get along with two others in this group. After we get the waiter to explain the ingredients to us, Monika and I order a mushroom and herb pizza, Marina and Brittany order an italian-style cheese pizza, Julian and Matt order the waiter’s favorite chicken dish. We eat with hesitancy: something smells like eucalyptus on my plate, and I am very sure that the small narrow leaves I’m eating actually are eucalyptus under a different name. I never ask. I am not hungry because of jet lag but I try to eat as much as I can because I don’t know how a plate full of food looks to the British at the end of a meal. Monika tells us it’s not common to take boxes of food out of a restaurant with you. But we do, anyway. 

We wait a long time for the dessert menu and take a long time to decide what we want. I debate between the earl grey & biscuit ice cream and the Marathon Bar ice cream and eventually decide on the latter. We all share dessert besides me: this is something I have never done, share plates, for fear of what other people carry. I try not to look wholly uninterested, but refuse all offers. I realize quickly this isn’t going to work for long, and savor my one, perhaps last, night of health.

After dinner and dessert we take our boxes. I’m feeling much better about my present company. I’m getting along okay with people. I’m trusting that we won’t get lost. I’m tired and they want to go to a pub. I tell them I’m too tired and I have to check in with my parents--I’ve tried to send them a text with wifi at the restaurant, but I don’t know if they’ve got it. I need to email them, or something, and I don’t want to go out. I don’t want to drink. I convince Marina of this and while we get back to the hostel and the rest of them plan to meet in a half-hour in the lobby to walk to the pub, I stay inside my room until long after I think they’ll have left before walking down to the lobby to try to access wifi to check in with home. It is a grating thing, being unable to contact home, feeling so completely separate. And completely at the mercy of a merciless city, bustling as vehemently at night as it is during the day. If I’ve done something wrong--if this is a dream or nightmare--I am helpless. I have nothing. The creeping, oily feeling of not knowing whether or not I’m doing something right or not washes over me again, and I have about ten minutes of wifi in the lobby to hold this at bay. I get in touch, I see pictures of home. I feel split in half: half saying you want this, this is good, this is what you’ve wanted, half wishing to go home, scared without definite reason. If you wanted this, why do you feel like crying? Why do you miss home? Why don’t you want to be here if you know you do, and you know it’s good? Why doesn’t it feel good, to be here?

The violence of my mood swings keeps me up late at night, flipping through pictures of the cat and family on my phone before I fall asleep. I set my alarm for early the next morning, half hoping to wake up at home. I remember vividly what the bend of the cat’s elbow feels like against my knee, the sogginess of his extra skin under his armpits, the ridged surface of his forehead under my palm.

* * *

Day two I wake up knowing I’ve had less sleep than I need but Big Ben is ringing in seven o’clock and there are sirens playing a comforting background track--even at home we have those--to that announcement. I feel, for a small moment, transcended from the ache of my body, and I feel that in this moment some magic occurs and I am happy. 

We have a full itinerary on day two. At eight o’clock I board the lift and fill up the last square foot of space available down to the ground floor. We stop at floor four and somebody next to me says “it’s full,” threateningly, to whomever wants to board. We make it to the ground floor and spill out of the lift towards the smell of pastry and coffee. Marina had said they had good breakfast here, and that description wasn’t amiss. Breakfast is interesting in England; many people have beans and tomatoes and mushrooms with their eggs and sausages. Others have cold cuts on toast. I grab a chocolate croissant, watermelon, an apple, a boiled egg and a cup of black coffee. There is not an abundance of soy milk in the London I’ve encountered. 

It’s busy this morning; I see room at two tables but choose the one with the Chinese international students rather than the lone British boy because there’s less chance that a group will feel the need to strike up a conversation. Especially as they’re not speaking English at the moment. 

“Is it okay if I sit with you?” I ask. I am extremely conscious of my American accent. One of the boys at the table smiles and says “yes,” bowing towards the table. I bow my neck awkwardly in response, as I’m carrying my tray under one arm and my laptop and purse in the other hand. I try not to think while I eat. I have trouble peeling my egg and feel exceptionally daft; I catch myself smiling in self-deprecation at a graduate student across the room and abandon the task for the moment, testing the coffee. It’s too hot.

I see Brittany come in and call to her but my voice is not loud and I am not good at being heard over others; I slump in my seat as she finds another at a table far away. I’m nearly done with my meal and there’s no room at my table. I deem it a moot point to attract her attention. I see Matt and Marina walk in as I’m about to stand up and move into the lobby and when I’m leaving and throwing out my trash I see they’ve got a table over by the opposite wall.

I sit down on the floor in the lobby as the seats are taken and hear something tear. I still can’t, after three days, locate what ripped, but I’m sure it was in my trousers. I can’t get wifi for more than a few minutes in the lobby. There was a cap on the data I was allowed to download within a 24-hour period. I think to myself that I’ve probably used it up. 

When I get up I think of all the surreptitious ways to check to see if I’ve got a hole in my jeans, but don’t come up with any that won’t look extremely awkward if someone happens to spot me. I pull my UCI pullover down to the middle of my thighs and hope it doesn’t ride up during the time it takes me to get to my room on the seventh floor. People have been staring at my pullover. I decide it’s too soon; I’m too sensitive, still, to how different it is to be the foreigner; and swap this sweatshirt out for a safer one in the room. I look out into central London from my window. I find out later, after I mention it casually, I’m the only one of the group who could see Big Ben from her room.

* * *

When Niki picks us up from the Lobby at 9.30 I immediately take a liking to her. She knows my last name as soon as I introduce myself and this instills in me a brief, bracing hope. I’m getting along with people this morning; I feel floating, and light, and excited. Jet lag doesn’t just make you tired.

Niki hands us oystercards, which are decorated in limited-edition London 2012 graphics. I feel for a crystalline moment how special everything is, and how precious. Three months seems suddenly one of the shortest periods a life could have within it. Will it be long enough? Is home really that far away? What’s a ten-hour plane ride but a memory?

We walk down to Holborn, through a maze of stairs and twists and turns and gates and escalators. We board the tube and I somehow end up standing but Matt offers me a half-seat on the wall by the door. I take it gratefully, mentioning that “my legs aren’t even that high” which probably kills the impression that I’m grateful at all, but I’m sitting there, which should be evidence enough--right? We’re meant to get off at Hyde Park and when we do, it’s up and down and around another twirling maze of stairs, escalators, gates. I manage to present my oystercard to the machines without looking so ostentatiously like a tourist. 

--I’m stopping this writing here to say that I’ve listened to the entirety of my Mark Knopfler playlist over the amount of time I’ve been on the computer today, which is 6.6 hours. The rain in England is still daunting to a Californian person--

* * *

The Tower of London is our first stop, and it is incredibly beautiful. And old. And I feel the history brimming over. We go on a beefeater tour. At the moment, all I can say is that this place is beautiful and it’s a small city, it’s not just a tower, there are stones older here than what the mind can comprehend. We looked out over the Thames to Tower Bridge. And we stood looking up at the looming white walls of White Tower, built by William the Conqueror after he overtook the monarchy. We stood by the tower where they held Sir Thomas Moore prisoner for failing to acknowledge the King as the head of the British Church. It’s a beautiful day--sunny, with a nice breeze--and I feel like this is the place I’ve thought about for years, since high school, when this reality was still a timorous, gilded dream.

* * *

We board a bus--an old-fashioned double-decker. I’d mentioned to Brittany and Marina the day before I wanted to ride on the top deck of a bus and here we were! The porter came up with a ticket-check and we asked him to stop at our stop near Covent gardens, where we were meant to have lunch. When we were nearing St. Paul’s Cathedral, Niki moved out of her seat and motioned I move into it as it was closest. She then proceeded to take a picture of me and the others gazing out of the window. I found myself unabashedly interested, almost completely unaware of my body. I can’t believe, even still, that people live amongst this kind of history. Of course--in America, all the history lies under our concrete. But here it’s alive, the stone of pre-tenth century is up in the air of the twenty-first. My T.A. for English 100 last winter quarter, so overwhelmed and enthused by the subject matter at hand--Saussure’s “The Object of Study,” which argues, amongst other things, that the sound-image of a word, many of which together compose our thoughts, is completely unrelated to the meaning of the word itself and is related by an unmotivated, societal determination--told us, waving his hands around his head, “if it doesn’t seem like that big of a deal--if it’s not amazing--then you’re not completely understanding it.”

I’ve lived by that statement since, determined to at least understand when I’m not thoroughly engaged with something. Is it that the locals of London don’t understand what they live amongst each day? Or is it that they’re desensitized to it? Is there a difference? Are most of them actually quietly awed each time they consider their surroundings, think of all the people who’ve come before them, who will come after them, who have inhabited the same spaces? People walk fast in London--faster than my short legs approve of--and walk by these buildings that caused me to take pause.

On the bus, Niki asked us if we thought we could find our way back after lunch to the study centre, where we’d been yesterday with Monika, or if we wanted her to come and collect us. I told her quite honestly that if it were up to me to get us back we’d all be lost within moments; but Marina and Julian were convinced they could get us back. Niki showed them the map and gave them directions on how to get back; I didn’t pay attention, but I know this much. However, she didn’t tell us how to get to Covent Gardens itself, but dropped us off at a phone store instead. 

We decided not to get phones right away because we were hungry for lunch. It took us a long time to find the market where the crepe place she’d mentioned would be. We tried going into a bakery to ask for directions, but that only got us “over that way.” When we’d gotten that far, we went into Pret and asked first a small Irish woman where Covent Gardens was and she didn’t know, so we tried another woman who knew and directed us clearly toward the Covent Garden Market. We found our way there, fretting the whole time, and walked into a very beautiful little mall. The crepe place was called “Le Creme de le Crepe” and we found it pretty easily after walking by a giant vat of Paella. I heard one girl say “that smells delicious!” while we were walking and wondered about genes, and how people inherit preferences that can differ so wildly. 

I ordered a crepe stuffed with goat’s cheese, caramelized onion marmalade, roasted red peppers and “rocket.” Onion marmalade is very, very strong and has a quite specific taste. I think it’s probably pickled; I don’t really know how marmalade works, but it’s more than just onions that’ve been cooked down. I could only eat about half of mine because I hadn’t been hungry at the correct times because of the time difference, but after everyone had tried it, Julian finished it. I felt a small victory. I’d shared food with others without actually acquiring theirs, and for the moment, was safe.

We walked back towards the phone place--Julian had already got a SIM card and needed to find an O2, and while Marina, Brittany and I went into the Carphone Warehouse fist, we weren’t sure what our options were and then we wanted to try out Vodafone next door. We deliberated over “pay as you go” phones and all decided on the same one, but they only had one left in stock, so Marina decided to go back next door and I decided I’d take a Nokia instead, which left Brittany with the Samsung. I’m actually jealous of her now, because her phone uses T9 to text while mine does not and I haven’t read through the manual to figure out how to change it.

Our plans were a minimum 10 pound top-up, which got us 100 minutes and 300 incoming texts for 30 days. After 30 days, these minutes and texts are eaten up if you don’t use them or are propelled into cyberspace, and you have to top-up again. As a member of the digital age I felt quite confident that I could use up the texts and perhaps spend some time on some free support hotline if I needed to use up paid minutes at the end of the month’s period. The phone is what Americans, at least, refer to semi-affectionately as a “brick”--all it does is text and call, but it does have an FM radio, an alarm function, and a built-in flashlight. After we got our phones and Matt and Julian figured out their SIM cards--Matt had bought an international smartphone from Target before leaving home and I think Julian had unlocked his smartphone--we needed to start walking back to the study centre for the latter half of our informational orientation.

There are street maps all over London, though they’re a bit different to American ones. When you stand in front of one and look at it, what it shows you is actually what you’re looking at. For example, it will show you only what’s in front of you and on the sides that you can see while looking at the sign from that specific perspective. There are circled zones on these maps that tell you whether or not something in front of you or to one side is within a five-, ten-, or fifteen-minute walk. Niki had told us all that the study centre was about 15 minutes walking from Covent Gardens. 

Here is where I will get slightly--er--well, accusing. Remember that I’ve written that I heard Niki instruct Marina and Julian on how to get back to where we needed to be? Well, the other three of us hadn’t listened and were counting on these two to tell us how. Julian seemed to know but somehow none of us were listening to him because Marina wasn’t and then I hear her say out of the blue that Niki just told them the “general direction” to walk towards and then say that Niki didn’t really tell them anything. For whatever reason, while I disagreed, this did not concern me at the time. We will find our way back, I thought, with a trust at odds with everything I’d experienced in the city so far. 

* * *

“I think we’ve gone too far,” I said, when we were on the street the study centre’s on. And I pulled out my folder of orientation things and saw that the address was exactly one door behind us. I was pleased with my surprisingly spot-on radar. 

I can’t think of anything particularly interesting to tell you about academic orientation besides: Here, there are no exams in autumn, so courses are either graded by projects, coursework, or exams in the Spring. Here, they grade on percentages--a 70% corresponds to an A in the states, and a 60% an A-. You pass if you make a 40%. We’re all taking 60 UEA units, which corresponds to 24 UC units. And here, prompt instructions are much less detailed, you’re expected to do more than the required reading, and attendance is required to seminars. 

* * *

We went to dinner at Carluccio’s. I find that in England food is generally unsalted. I couldn’t finish my plate and so passed it around. Had a lemon tart for dessert. Caved and tried from the others’ plates.

* * *

The show Chariots of Fire is the same plot as the film, but Matt and I agreed afterwards that it’s much more disjointed and not as emotionally-impacting. We got some laughs out of it--some at the expense of women, some at the expense of Canadians, some at the expense of Americans--and it was a tourist thing to do, seeing a show in the West End. And of course Mr Bean has immortalized the theme song with his umbrella and tweeting at the synth in the opening ceremonies. 

* * *

At the end of day two, I’m feeling much more hopeful. When I look through the pictures of home, I’m not as sad. I’m not sad at all. I feel empowered, I feel I can do this, be a human out of her shell.

* * *

and, now? It's 2.15 AM on Tuesday morning, I've been in Norwich for a few days, and I will have blogs up as soon as I can get them up to describe the time I've been here and the trip over. But I'll leave you with this small image of how I feel: 




Thursday, September 20, 2012

flight, landing & customs


I’m writing this post into a pages document approximately 4 hours after landing at London Heathrow airport. It seems like I have a whole week’s worth of information to relay, and I’m going to try hard to make sense of it, as I’m currently being bullied by jet lag.

I should start off with my flight over. No, I should really start off with the stuff I didn’t tell you about the day before I left. Nothing really happened that was exciting except for Dad and I drove in circle after circle to the same places trying to figure out how to load money onto my isic card and open up new accounts with another nameless, but more worthy-of-a-name, bank. It was only 100 degrees out so it wasn’t a big deal or anything and I definitely didn’t sprout up a new batch of nose freckles from the sunlight that came through the windows. Nope.

Dad works on Sunday mornings and leaves really early, but somehow, on four hours of sleep, I managed to get up at 5:45 and sit around waiting for him to emerge from the back of the house, which he did around 6:25. It was the thing, saying goodbye to him, that made everything real--there is probably a quote or maybe I am making it up or maybe it’s one of those truisms that nobody needs to quote because everyone knows it or has heard it because someone else knows it--and it is, it ain’t real until it’s real, yo.

Up until that point--yes, what was only actually 24 hours ago for my body but what feels like a lot longer ago--and is, according to London’s time zone--I had planned, and I had expected to feel like I had more things under control and no matter how many times I told myself I had everything I needed, and no matter if I did have everything I needed, I didn’t believe it was happening. I am sitting in a room seven floors up (so it’s the eighth floor, for y’all Americans) in central London and I’m still not sure it’s real life. I sat through a 9.5 hour plane ride and braved the tube alone with a giant obnoxious piece of pink luggage, I walked down the wrong street for probably half a mile and turned around and sweated a lot and carried things heavy enough to make my hands fall asleep once I let go of them...and it still almost feels too distant from me, and my real life, and whatever routines or understandings I’ve ever had.

Part of it I can pinpoint as one of the pitfalls of being a writer. And--this is a quote--the poet’s life is the least poetic of all. I think of all the stories I’ve written set in London, after hours of research and many nights hovering in front of the Wikipedia page, and then I think about how when writing them, I did the research because I wasn’t there. I made it real to the characters and to myself for a time but it wasn’t actually real. People will argue about this, but as Stephen Hawking has written--philosophy is dead. (I know this two ways: one, there was a question about this on my honors biology final last winter quarter and two, I listened to part one of the audio book for some book of Stephen Hawking’s in which he said this. I will not admit that it was because I was hoping to fall asleep and The Emperor's New Groove, while as fantastic as ever, wasn’t making me sleepy.)

I guess I brought up the idea of people arguing is because I myself have stood with one foot on each side of the border--jet lag, so forgive atrocious metaphors. On the one hand, a writer who believes that what her stories say is true takes writing seriously and wants to believe in the power of a constructed reality. In terms of how this reality can affect the moods, emotions, motivations, and reactions of the writer, there’s no question of the power of this “construction.” But on the other hand, that writer insisting that the London of her stories is every bit as real to her as real London would be if she ever stepped foot in it has never been to London. Now I have been both people, and I believe both of me, but at the moment, as overwhelmed as I am and as strange and wonderful my four hours here have been already, I’m inclined to lean towards the problem I’ve set up in the latter example.

The airport was large, white, and clean, and everyone was moving fast. I mastered the art of tripping every time I got off the conveyor belts. The lady at customs gave me sass when I said my program started on “the 24th.” She said, “would you like to choose a specific month for that date?” and stared at me over her glasses. In the baggage claim area, there are yellow boxes hovering above each turnstile with the terminal numbers--but if you don’t happen to know this or guess it right, like I managed to, you will wander forever because half of the people there don’t speak English and your voice probably isn’t loud enough to attract the attention of someone who looks like s/he could help you.

Getting to the tube, you have to know what “tube” means--which is “underground,” and this is pretty much the most difficult thing to find out online in the history of finding out what “tube” means. Which is just to say it’s really hard and it took me several tries and creative rearranging of words. But if you happen to know it’s underground and you happen to know you need to take the Picadilly line from terminal three and you happen to figure out what kind of ticket you want to buy to go on the tube one time, and then you happen to find a spot on the next train, then you--well, you get onto the train. There was a nice old man standing around answering people’s questions so I joined the queue and, while staring at the sign that told me exactly where to go, I asked him where to go to get to the Picadilly line into Holborn. And he told me and was very nice.

I managed to lug my suitcase up into the mostly-empty car. Being completely brain-wiped and already-clueless-on-a-good-day as I was/am, I decided to shimmy it down to the middle of a row,  not understanding that this line serves central London and the fact that the car was mostly empty was because my stop was the second on the lineup. For a while, I sat and stared, fascinated, disbelieving, and nearly exhilarated all at once. Plus I am severely jet lagged and that can’t help.

From the tube, London is unforgiving, a mishmash of sour grunge and flying buttresses, neat vertical houses with window boxes and the pervasive trunk of underground wire underscoring brick and marble, grasses and forests of weeds. Glass on concrete on steel, white paint on brown borders on french windows, construction crane on steel monolith, green mesh on cinderblock. The light shining into the car from the sun outside is too warm. I caught a glimpse of myself in the reflection of the window opposite me when we went through a black tunnel, and I horrified myself.

OK I am going to stop to take a nap and will probably finish this after orientation begins tonight!

And now that I’ve gotten about 30 minutes of sleep and had day one of London orientation down (which I will write about in its own post, coming soon!), I can continue.

To make the picture clearer to you: the night before I left, I got about 4 hours of sleep. On the plane, we went east, and swallowed up eight hours of nighttime. On the plane I slept on and off, and I think I was really, really asleep for probably three whole hours, and dozed for another couple. The main problem wasn’t that I wasn’t tired--because I think if I’d been more comfortable in my seat I could have slept the whole nine hours. I didn’t want to put my backpack up in overhead storage since I knew I’d be getting into it quite often, so I had it under the seat in front of me, which meant less legroom.

Continuing writing after the end of day two in London:

To make it clearer yet: I looked like the undead. And even then, not so nice. After moving into the hostel, I showered and then rubbed my face clean of what vestiges of makeup still clung to it and spent a good amount of time trying to get the rest of the mascara off the bottom of my eyes--which, I suddenly thought, was strange because I wore waterproof and I didn’t put any on the bottom. And--the lighting is not too strong here--I moved closer, squinted, and realized that I had never before known what a true dark circle was. And let me say--the smooth patches of slightly discoloured skin under the eyes of women in makeup commercials are as white as snow compared.

Typed “discouloured” without thinking about it. Transforming!

Okay, so some other things about the flight. My friend Chris (who is at Brunel!) had told me that I needed to let the airlines know ahead of time that I was a vegetarian, and that they’d serve me vegan food. But if you book with STA travel, as I had, you can’t contact the airlines directly with queries about your ticket as it’s not made out to you--it’s made out to STA travel, who makes it out to you. In other words, I had to go in to see someone at STA travel about the vegetarian ~alert~ and she said she’d sent it in, but this was me having complete faith that something very important would work out without my having had any hand in it directly. In light of everything I’ve done to prepare for this trip by myself, that was very stressful, so when I was boarding the plane, I asked every person I saw if they could check whether or not I was set up for vegetarian food. And since they served dinner very soon after takeoff, nobody came to tell me directly, but vegetarian and kosher meals are served first, and so I could see clearly mine was a vegan meal. I had a brown-rice and various vegetable patty with vegetables, a small side salad and fruit for dessert. Others got raspberry cheesecake, but it’s cool. Who even likes cheesecake, anyway?

I don’t mind flying--I don’t get claustrophobic and I don’t get anxious--but I become extremely nervous during takeoff. It’s not the feeling itself--that you’ve left your stomach behind, or that it’s floating up your throat, or that you don’t have a body at all--but I think it’s that that seems the time something horrible would happen if it could. This time I was hardly thinking of that. What was I doing? How’d I know this was a good idea? What if England was too different to my expectations, and what if I didn’t get along with the others? What if I missed home too much? For someone who lives with her family rather than apart from them at school, it was very hard to say goodbye. I still become overwhelmed with brief flashes of homesickness in inopportune places--the stairs, the three-story escalators at tube stations, in the middle of a crosswalk. I had an especially hard time when I got lost after exiting the tube station. After walking into “the city of Westminster,” I realized I was far off-track. I pulled out of the way--the London pavement is consistently full of an erratic stream of fast-walking traffic--took a good while to consult the map, and figured out I’d walked down a cross-street. But I’d probably walked half a mile with my luggage. My arms were falling asleep. I was hot, sweating, and could hardly enjoy the fact that it was a beautiful day. People were looking at me, and in that moment, if I could have--I don’t know--Apparated home--I should have. I felt miserable. I wondered why I thought I could ever do this--travel to a city nearly 10000 kilometers away by myself, and find my way around alone, with probably a collective 60 pounds of luggage, in a bustling, ruthless city?

On the plane, I ended up in a row seat. Looking back, I’m glad about that, because though I’d requested a window-seat at the same time I requested vegetarian meals, it wouldn’t have been worth the trouble it’d have been to get out to use the restroom or walk around. The window shutters had to be closed for probably seven hours of the 9.5-hour flight. When they were open, I could only see land for about half an hour, and I just leaned past the two others on my left and stared relentlessly. England is immediately distinguishable from the U.S. by nothing else if not the remnants of the common field system--the puzzle-like patches of yellow, green, brown land, with uprisings of fluffy trees at the peripheries of random fields. I remember once flying over--perhaps Kansas? and looking down into neat, square, patches of land. Also of flying over rice patties, which were somewhere in California, which were also neat and clean-lined.

And then there was London--the immense, unimaginable web of roofs, of tiny, stump-like streets, and then the glitter trail of the Thames in the early morning. I was stunned. Wow, London! I thought, over and over. Wow, wow, that’s London!

After we took off, I put on Brave, as I hadn’t seen it before. Seeing as this is a story about how a princess and her mother the queen first hate each other and then reconcile after the queen is turned into a bear with human consciousness, this was completely cathartic. I might have even sobbed. Maybe. Well I didn’t say that, but it’s just a possibility. And when that was done, I looked through the other movies, and tried to watch The Avengers--which I also hadn’t previously seen--and I am not too big on action movies, so I got bored after a helicopter crashed and Loki made 2849584758345767 evil faces. I proceeded to listen through the entirety of Feist’s newest album--Metals--which I never have purchased but plan to do after getting to Norwich, depending on how much albums in the UK cost. There’s a song called “Graveyard,” I think, which was so--well, haunting, and there’s a refrain in it that’s so surprising and chilling--bring them all back to life--and I’m working on writing a story that has something to do with whatever theme that is, and it just felt like a little moment in which I was myself. I think you really need those, at times that you’re in a completely new situation, something so big. Bringing things from home, beforehand, might seem like cheating--might seem like a hindrance to integration. And I think, perhaps, if you fixate on home, and you don’t go out, and you don’t try new things, that can happen, but more than that, I think that bringing things from home is a way to remind yourself that this is still you, and that you have the same person in your body, and that you are the same body, you’re the same cells, you’ve still got your super-unique genetic code in these cells. And to remember this is more important than you’d realize before leaving.

There were times in the plane that I became numb from sitting so long and couldn’t discern whether or not I was in my body. I burnt my tongue on my breakfast tea--and for a moment was completely guttered, and then felt a rising gratefulness, because it put me back into my body. I became, again, very aware of myself. It was the only thing I knew for certain on the plane, in that moment, and it was good.

If you’re not from the UK nor the EU, you have to fill out “landing cards” on the plane. I filled mine out in pencil and then had doubts. I asked a stewardess if she thought it was okay that I used pencil, because it didn’t say anywhere on the form to use BLUE OR BLACK INK; just to write in capital letters. And she said she didn’t know, and her accent was slightly troubling to my very tired translation skills--I do like the New Zealand accent, but when it’s strong I’m a bit lost on certain words--but I did hear, “well, usually you use ink,” and I immediately felt dumb for saying “pen” instead of ink, but she leant me a new form and a pen to fill out another card, just to be safe. This was about twenty minutes before we landed at Heathrow.

After she’d given it to me and I’d thanked her an annoying amount of times, a boy a row in front of me and on the other side of the aisle to my right--that is, on the end seat closest to mine--turned around and asked if he could use the pen when I was done. I saw his passport earlier and so had known he was American, but I think he was surprised to find out I was. I actually know this because he told me later he thought I was British at first, at which I nearly choked on my apple-cinnamon soda. But that’s for the next post. Now, I’d seen this boy dancing to his iPod at all hours and being very--erm, lively? animated?--with his finger on the touch screen. You know how some people will wave a finger around while trying to choose something to point to, or touch on a touch-screen? He did this every time he touched the screen, which is more than I care to remember. In fact, before I fell asleep the first time, I remember my last thought to be: okay, sassy finger.

After we had landed, while we were waiting for the scuffle to end for overhead baggage, and to get the okay to alight from the plane, this boy turns to me and asks if I’m a UC student. I admit part of me groaned inwardly, but I tried to smile and say yes. I mean, I did say yes. I probably smiled. Then he asks if I’m going to Norwich (pronouncing it incorrectly, as I’d done forever--phonetically, when in fact, the “w” is silent!) and I say yes, trying to squash any apprehension that might flicker around my face, and I ask him some things, and figure out he’s from UCSB studying environmental studies. It wasn’t until we were at the airport waiting in line at customs that I realized it was a total, unrealistic coincidence that we’d been seated so close to each other on the plane. (Later, I found out he’d also used STA travel to book his ticket, so that’s probably why. But still!) We got separated there, but I caught him walking right past baggage claim after I’d retrieved my bright pink luggage from the belt. I directed him to the right place and we walked out into--whatever is on the other side of the lines that divide you into “nothing to declare” and “materials to declare.” After assuming incorrectly that he’d be taking the tube, too, I found the tube entrance and then Matt--his name--tells me he’s taking a shuttle, so from this point on, I was on my own.

However, this is where I’m going to end my post, because now it’s 1 AM and I really need to wake up on time tomorrow--at customs, the little immigration officer asked me why I was coming to the UK, and I told her I was studying, and she asked me what I was studying, so I said, “English and Creative Writing.” And she looks up from my passport and sort of scoffs at me and says “English?” when I am clearly American. “Literature,” I clarified after a moment of thought. Then, “well, they just call it ‘English’ at my school...” And she laughed and asked for papers. What I was a bit--er--upset about, was that my admissions letter didn’t say the ending date of my program. Luckily, because I brought a lot more papers and copies than I could ever need, I’d printed out my student profile from the UEA website, which nobody told me I’d need!, because I had noticed, too, at home, that the admissions letter didn’t give an end date, and I knew from what I’d read about customs that they’d need to see when the program ended to give me my student visa. So it was basically just by the grace of God that I had that paper with me. And that was enough. She didn’t want to see anything else. But I’ve noted her sass above--and then when I asked if I needed to pay her there, she looked at me and said, “you don’t have to pay me anything,” and then after I’d expressed first disbelief and then awe and relief, she laughed, and as she was stamping the visa page, said, “is that how they do things in America?”

The irony is that here there are fees for many more services that we typically receive for free in California. I didn’t argue, though, because I was just relieved to have gotten through problem-free. And because I am not the arguing type. Probably, mostly this.

The airport was very hot. And I was very tired. And had been on a plane for 9.5 hours. I will, in my next post, describe more about the tube than I have here, as well as the first day of orientation in London. And then, in another couple posts, I will describe the second day in town, and then, after we’ve moved into Norwich and explored/napped/gotten ethernet, also a post about this.

I apologize for having taken so long to update in detail. This post is probably unintelligible anyway, because I know I did strange things with the progression of time, but I’ve gotten into the bad habit of, because of writing short stories, writing in theme-based order rather than chronological. If y’all need clarification or have other questions, please ask! But, for now, HELLO FROM LONDON.

(P.S. I woke up this morning to Big Ben and sirens ringing in the seven o’clock hour. It was magical.)

whale whale whale

I landed in England about three-four days ago, depending on where you live. I'm still writing posts to cover the gap, and I'll post them as soon as I can. We didn't have wifi nor internet of any sort at the hostel in London, but I have ethernet now, so it shouldn't be a problem to make posts :)

Thursday, September 13, 2012

mid-september, 2

so I should be asleep, but I noticed right before clicking the laptop shut that UC EAP United Kingdom's facebook page had posted a photo album of the orientation for the students going to the University of Manchester. I decided I had to look through these and then, of course, I was wide awake again.

I forget the progression, but then I was back on Megan's page looking through her pictures and being generally jealous that she's there already; for whatever reason I ended up on google maps, searching for the High Holborn Residence so that I'd know what to expect when I was there.

The tube station I'll exit from is very close to the H.H.Residence, and the walk should take me probably ten minutes with luggage and a crowd pressing in on me. Check-in to EAP orientation isn't until 15:00 on Monday, and I'm arriving at Heathrow at 11:15. After I get out of customs, it'll probably be noonish (I have no experience and could be totally off on this estimate, but I'm trying to overestimate as opposed to the opposite), and then I have an hour's tube ride to Holborn. Plus the wait time in lines to buy a single-fare ticket. So I figure it will probably be around 13:15 or 13:30--trying to get into the habit of the 24-hour display, I apologize to American readers--before I get to the H.H.R., but even then I'm still an hour and a half early.

So what will I do? I've researched my options several times. I'll be allowed to check my luggage in to a locker room, but I can't go to a room to rest/clean up until I've checked in at 15:00, and I've also heard it's good for jet lag to be outside as much as possible and drink as much water as I can. These two things in mind, I've had the general idea that I will probably go visit a cafe and drink as much h-two-oh as I can in those minutes. (It's possible things will play out differently, since I've recently gotten in contact with the other UCI student attending UEA and therefore the same orientation as me. She's arriving in London on Sunday, though, so I might meet up with her? I'm not sure, but there are possibilities open to me.)

The reason I'm writing is because while I was on google maps I was exploring High Holborn and +Drury Lane--YES, IT EXISTS, I'M GOING TO FIND THE MUFFIN MAN--which is right off High Holborn and behind the H.H.R., (I feel like I'm writing the U.S.S.R. when I do that for little apparent reason besides the repetition and the 'R' but it's currently 2:30 {am}, so there you are). I decide to use the nifty little "search nearby" option and type in "cafe" as I haven't had much luck locating anything with food and drink besides Domino's. And several options pop up--this is London, after all--but the first one on the list and quite near to Drury Lane is Poetry Cafe.

I immediately choose this one--what English major wouldn't? what writer wouldn't?--without looking through the other options and look up directions. It looks like a three minute walk from the H.H.R., and google provides me with a +website link, so I decide to check it out.

I see a lot of things on the page, but what's the first thing? That it's vegetarian cuisine on the menu. And next? Poetry readings every night.

It almost makes me wish I was staying in London for longer; and it definitely makes me feel just that much more excited and hopeful. This is real, and now. It is in my life, and it is right.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

mid-september

4 days till liftoff.

Many of my friends have already landed in London: Megan, then Angela, and I was talking to Kelsey last night on Facebook at 2 AM, two hours after which she was heading off with her mom to the airport. Next Monday, around 3 AM pacific standard time, I'll have landed at Heathrow myself after a 10.5 hour plane ride. Although, Angela did mention that hers was only 9 hours, and she also flew Air New Zealand. So we'll just see, I guess. Won't we? (Already going British~)

Yesterday my mom made a recipe book / folder for me containing vegetarian staples such as pancakes and veggie pot pie. Dad was unconvinced that I'd be cooking at all, since I don't at home, but at home there are also people supplying the breadbox with a pretty constant stream of bakery goods, and abroad I'll have to fill in that role myself, plus there's the added pressure of not wanting to get fat(ter) in the presence of a lot of British kids. Eheheheh.

Things I did yesterday:

  • "finished" packing my suitcase, but I do still have to shove in a few wall decorations and moar socks etc.
  • finished packing my carryon backpack, although it's likely I'll remove one of the outfits and put it in the suitcase so there's weight allowance for my laptop charger, which only weighs 100 pounds.
  • broke open the little cheap lock that came with this suitcase, which I'd dumbly locked onto one of the zippers last time I used it. Of course I had no idea where the key was, so I pulled out a fettling knife from my box of ceramics/sculpting tools and borrowed a small screwdriver from dad's toolbox/tower/thinger (thinger is a word I learned from Angela and I like it) and then proceeded to pry it open from the seams. My first step actually was to try to trick the lock into accepting a hair pin as a key, but what happened wasn't that and actually when I pulled the hairpin out of the lock it broke in half. It took me a decent amount of time but I managed to break the seam apart and then poke the top of the lock out, and it all fell apart. evidence of my superhuman strength above.
  • weighed the luggage. I have a one-bag allowance before I have to pay to check in luggage, and it's really a 50lb one-bag allowance, because I'm sure I could get a lot more than that in a single bag. Megan's, for example, weighed 50.5 lbs, and she had "packed light." OK.
    • suitcase: ~37 lbs
    • backpack: ~13 lbs
  • worked on a story, cleaned out my wallet, cleaned out my purse, and added all makeup items to my liquids bag in my backpack.
Today I found out my attempts to set up a bank-to-international card transfer online failed, so tomorrow I have to go to the nameless bank (oh joy! oh rapture!) to get them to set up ACH transferring. I will ignore nameless banker with all the determination of a bullheaded...Lily. Friday, I'm going to have lunch with a coworker from the Library and probably turn in my key, since I won't go back to work until January. I'm also looking forward to a break, hoping that I'm more pleasant when I return.

If you follow my other blog, after I post this I'm going to post a "summer in pictures" summary of what I've done for the past few months, since my last post there was on the last day of school in June. Oops. I also should finish my post about my dad's shenanigans to post there for all your reading pleasure.

For now, I'll leave you with this video of the song that has always been a background track to my love for England and the UK. 


Monday, September 10, 2012

hell is empty

and all the devils are on the I-5 -- said Shakespeare.

It's the one thing I've been able to say from the beginning that I will absolutely not miss from home while I'm abroad: the commute to school. Today it was a commute to the most boring hour and a half of my recent life story. Traffic is always unpredictable and usually when I leave by 7:00, I'm ahead of the bulk of it, and I did leave the house at that time, but I did stop to get gas along the way and I ended up boarding the freeway at 7:18. From the Avery onramp to Jefferson/University on the 405, I only got up to speed (~65 is pretty good for my car after traffic) once, and whilst in traffic the speediest I managed was around 40 mph. The car was roaring like it meant it, though. Speed is just a number.

The moral of this story: if you ever notice me getting nostalgic or misty-eyed remembering the good times I had in the grey-and-yellow mornings before school in the car....someone...someone send me internet slaps. Because Shakespeare's right.

More pertinently, I managed to finagle Quicken into displaying my correct account balances. All three, which is impressive for someone of my caliber. And, to top it all off, the error was 100% user-caused. Derp.

Also pertinently, I managed to get luggage tags and a startrek water bottle and a huuuuuuge water-proof backpack to use as my carryon instead of the overnight bag I have that is well, real luggage, because after hearing about the nightmare escalators etc at the airport, I'm not enthusiastic about my prospects when I consider lugging a 50lb rolling suitcase, an over-night handbag and my laptop. Oh, cool thing about the backpack is that it has a laptop sleeve in it and a million pockets, which I will fill with miscellania. Also I hope to use it as my travel bag when I manage to hop a train to Scotland or Wales.

Even more pertinently, I've added a page to the blog displaying where my friends who are abroad in the UK are, and if I can get their permission(s), I'll try to find a picture of them each abroad to add sparkle. I'll get permission first (edit: have permission, link on "mah frans" page), but my friend Megan is keeping a travel blog as well and she's 100x more eloquent and good at life than I am, so her blog is much nicer and much more emotional to read. I'm sure you're all potatoes after you read my posts.

Sunday, September 9, 2012

early september, 3

earlier today in US Pacific Time one of my English-major friends landed with her mom and step-dad in London. We had talked so much beforehand and are probably equal-status Anglophiles, and seeing her there has made the idea of my own adventure seem terrifyingly real.

the last few nights I've climbed into bed before my regular 3 AM curfew and have been entirely unable to sleep. I think of all the things I have to do before I leave, I think of passing out on the plane, I think of falling asleep and having to be woken up when the plane lands, I think of getting lost, I think of getting turned away by customs. I think about who will pet the cat when I am not home. I think about having tissues on hand at every moment because I'm unsure how my allergies will collide with cold(er) weather. I imagine myself against backdrops. I worry, fear inflating my chest, peeling my eyes open. And then I leap out of bed and sit at the computer, I look up the weather in London, I make sure Norwich and Edinburgh still exist, I write two lines of a short story, I re-read journal entries from last february, I turn off the fan and turn it back on, I trip over the cat, I check twitter, I knit a few stitches, and somehow in the morning wake up two hours after the time I'd set my alarm for.

by this time exactly a week from now, I will have been on the plane for just over two hours. When I imagine myself on the plane I am either 1) crying or 2) sleeping while they bring around the food. I've yet to imagine myself hopping over passengers to get to the bathroom but I'm sure it's only a matter of time.

I have yet to finish packing; to get my room clean enough to sit still for three months; to make five copies of every piece of paper I'm taking abroad; to feel any of this is real for more than a glimmering, stomach-hammering moment.

tomorrow I'll attend an hour-and-a-half session on ergonomics for work. It's required once in three years and I can't help feeling slightly irked at how unfortunate the timing is. I don't earn enough per hour to pay off how much it may take in gas to drive over, and beyond this, it starts at 9 AM, so I have to leave unspeakably early to avoid traffic. Have I mentioned that 3 AM is my usual bedtime?

but when it's done, I'll pick up luggage tags and pester Mom to help me find the box with all my towels and tupperware in our backyard storage shed.

Dad has helped me figure out what to do about a phone/international card in the last few days, as well, so I'm feeling slightly more prepared in material ways to set off.

Thursday, September 6, 2012

early september, 2

So today, I went to a branch of nameless bank in another city because they have a "foreign teller" who keeps pounds on hand. The exchange rate today was a pound to 1.666 dollars, so not the best I could have hoped for, but the point is, I now have quite a few different types of British notes to tote around. Because I am modest, I will not post a picture of my specific notes, but here is what they look like, generally (or always...):







The pictures don't make it clear, but the notes vary by size, according to value, so the larger the value, the wider and longer the note. I don't know if you can tell but the lines running down the left-hand side of the notes are iridescent, too. I had to fold the fifty in half "hotdog style" to fit it into the drive-thru envelope the teller gave me for the cash because it's so large. 

BTW: this is not an advertisement to burglars, o k.

I went to the local Marshalls to look for luggage tags but they didn't have them, at least where I could find them. However, they had 234847598439547543 pairs of women's shoes and 34985793475934 women browsing those aisles, so I wasn't sad to leave. I've seen luggage tags at Target, so I might just go back there...my favorite place! 

And then I went to the store to buy ice-cream because summer.

You might be wondering why I decided to have cash on me, besides the novelty of actually touching things that have actually come from Britain. I have a two-fold, partially-straightforward answer. 

1) I have to pay for my student visa at customs when I get into London and for whatever reason it seems less overwhelming to consider paying cash.

2) I've been told it's a good idea to have a bit of cash on me for smaller transactions, and because it's easier to track how much U.S. dollars you spend that way.

So that's my post for today, thanks for reading.